The chatter is gone.
The last time we were in Cortona for the University of Georgia’s Studies Abroad program, we rented a lovely little apartment; so lovely that we selected it again for this semester of teaching. Among the many reasons we loved it was that it was just off the main Piazza della Repubblica, one of the three main piazzas (squares) in the town. It has two tiny little balconies and from them, there is a narrow view into the piazza.
With the balcony doors open, as they usually are in warmer weather, there is always a delightful hum of the voices of people coming and going. There are several benches in Piazza della Repubblica and of course the steps of the Palazzo Comunale (town hall). These broad, well-worn stairs have welcomed people to Cortona since medieval times.
Like in most of Italy, Cortona’s piazzas act as the town’s living room. All day and into the night, people stroll, stop to chat, pass through as they go about their shopping or have a coffee at one of the several bars nearby. The piazza is a living, breathing space; as integral a part of the Italian culture as is pasta.
But now, in the piazzas, the steets and the little vicoli of Cortona, where you once heard the sound of voices in conversation, there is nothing. The stairs, typically filled with people sitting, relaxing, enjoying a gelato, are empty. Even during the time when people are going to and from the grocery, it’s quiet. Occasional conversations are heard, but they are rare and brief. From the balcony, I can watch people purposefully steer clear of one another, as they work to keep their “un metro” distance.
I’m looking forward to the day when this abnormal silenzio is replaced by normal conversazione.
Thank you Jeff for sharing your experiences and observations. I often think about places I have visited and wonder about daily life in good times and in challenging times. Stay well! Kaye Flamm
Thanks, Kaye; they are challenging times, indeed. We’ll find our way to the other side of this tunnel, I’m sure.
A brilliant and thoughtful commentary.
I hope all of our streets and piazzas are ringing with joy and laughter again before long.
Here’s hoping. I will be surprised if the US doesn’t start doing more wholesale closures of everything… I think it’s the only way.
Beautiful, yet haunting photo. So sad.
Start some music on your balcony to bring people out. We have seen videos of that.
Thanks, Angela!
How sadly beautiful. Thank you for sharing. All of us have a bit of Italy in us, it is so ancient. It feels like Mother is crying!
Thank you for reading – and it does feel like that in my adopted second country… let’s hope it’s over sooner than later.
Thanks For your thoughtful posts and beautiful photos, Jeff. Thinking of you and happy to check in on your daily life. Stay safe.
Thanks so much, Carol – I really appreciate your kind words.
Jeff, thank you for sharing your experiences. I worry about my family who is scattered throughout Italy. Fortunately my mother is able to speak with them. Thank goodness for technology. You and your posts help me feel closer to my family. Thank you again. Stay well.
Thanks, Mary Ann… I’m happy to provide some support.